Based on everything you described — and the other replies above — it really sounds like your car is reacting to a chain of related issues. The first warning EPC usually points to something like a throttle body malfunction, a faulty gas pedal sensor, or even ignition misfires. The jerking and sudden loss of power you experienced when the EPC came on are exactly what the system is designed to do: cut power to protect the engine.
Then, when the MTK light came on after the second acceleration, that likely means your transmission control module TCM received confusing or invalid data from the engine — like throttle angle or torque request - and triggered a fault of its own. What’s common in these situations is that EPC will go off once the engine returns to normal readings, but the MTK light stays on because the TCM stored a separate fault that hasn’t been cleared.
Since the lights are coming and going, I’d say the problem isn’t totally critical yet - but it’s definitely progressing. I’d highly recommend running a scan using InCarDoc with your OBD2 adapter. It’ll show not just active errors, but also stored and pending codes, which are super important in cases like this. Those hidden codes often reveal what actually triggered the chain of events. If your car supports it, check the freeze frame data too - that’ll tell you the exact conditions when the faults occurred.
Most likely you’ll see a combination of errors: maybe something with the throttle, boost pressure, ignition, or even a basic electrical glitch. Once you scan and see the exact codes, the picture will become a lot clearer - feel free to share the results here, and I or others can help walk you through what they mean.
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Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
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Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
That MTK light staying on after the EPC goes away sounds transmission-related to me. If you're driving a DSG or Tiptronic, it could be an issue with the transmission control module TCM, or even just a sensor out of sync after the EPC fault.
I had something similar where the EPC triggered a “safe mode” in the gearbox — MTK came on and stayed until I cleared the faults manually. If the TCU - transmission control unit senses any irregular input like bad throttle data, it can trigger MTK too. Look for codes in the P17xx or U010x range when scanning.
Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
Jerking under acceleration and sudden power loss could also point to ignition coil or misfire issues. On my car, a failing coil pack caused rough running under load, but no obvious codes until I checked deeper.
Sometimes the EPC comes on just because the engine isn’t firing properly — not always throttle-related. Check for codes like P0300–P0304, especially if it happens when the engine is under stress.
Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
Sounds like a throttle body or gas pedal sensor issue to me. I had something very similar — EPC light came on after hard acceleration, and the car basically refused to move. Turned out my throttle body was sticking and the throttle position sensor was out of range.
These things can be intermittent at first, then get worse. When the ECU sees bad throttle input, it throws EPC and cuts power as a safety measure. Definitely scan for throttle-related codes like P2138 or P2101 when you get a chance.
Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
Something weird happened with my car today and I’m still a bit shaken up.
I was getting off the highway via an exit ramp and accelerated up to around 60 km/h. As I continued to speed up, the EPC light suddenly came on, the car jerked hard, and it wouldn’t accelerate anymore — just completely lost power. Total shock.
Luckily, I was able to pull over safely right there on the ramp. I turned the engine off and waited about 10 minutes. When I restarted the car, the EPC light was gone, and the engine ran again, so I slowly made my way home.
Then — just as I was nearly home — I saw a yellow traffic light and decided to go for it. I accelerated quickly, and boom: EPC came back on, MTK light came on too, and the car jerked again. After that, the EPC light went off on its own, but now the MTK light is still on and won’t disappear.
The car seems drivable for now, but clearly something’s wrong. I haven’t scanned for codes yet, but I plan to check with InCarDoc soon.
Has anyone else experienced something like this? Could this be throttle body, transmission-related, or something with sensors?
Any ideas would really help — thanks in advance!
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Codes description Check engine light with P0420 code - catalyst efficiency problem, what should i do?
I had P0420 last year on my Honda. The cat was almost dead, but I didn’t notice much difference in driving. I replaced the oxygen sensor first because it was cheaper, and the code didn’t come back for a while. Using InCarDoc helped me see when the code popped up again. Definitely get a good scan before spending on parts.
Codes description Check engine light with P0420 code - catalyst efficiency problem, what should i do?
P0420 means your catalytic converter efficiency is below threshold, often Bank 1. Causes can be: worn-out or damaged catalytic converter, faulty downstream oxygen sensor, exhaust leaks before the sensor, engine running too rich or too lean - check for other codes. You can use InCarDoc to check codes, but for proper diagnosis, a shop with advanced diagnostics is best. Driving with a bad cat won’t damage your engine immediately, but it may increase emissions and cause failed emissions tests.
Codes description Check engine light with P0420 code - catalyst efficiency problem, what should i do?
P0420 is pretty common once your car has some mileage. Usually, it’s either the catalytic converter wearing out or the oxygen sensors acting up. Since your car drives normally, you can probably keep driving for a bit, but don’t wait too long. Check for exhaust leaks too - sometimes a hole or bad gasket before the cat can cause this code. InCarDoc is good for reading codes, but it won’t do advanced tests on sensors or the cat itself. If you want to DIY, clean or replace the oxygen sensors first - they’re cheaper than a new cat. But eventually, the catalytic converter may need replacing.
Codes description Check engine light with P0420 code - catalyst efficiency problem, what should i do?
My Check Engine Light came on recently, and when I scanned the car, I got a P0420 code. From what I understand, it means the catalytic converter isn’t working efficiently. The car seems to run okay - no big loss of power or strange noises - but I’m worried this might get worse. Has anyone dealt with this before? What are the typical causes, and can I keep driving like this for a while?
