Yeah man, that sounds super familiar. I had almost the same thing happen in my A3 - EPC light out of nowhere, big jerk, no power, then it just resets after a restart.
I used InCarDoc to scan for codes and found it was something with the throttle pedal sensor. It wasn’t completely broken, just sending weird signals sometimes, especially when I floored it.
If your MTK light is still on, there’s probably a stored code even if the car feels okay. Definitely scan it - InCarDoc is great for that. Could be a simple fix like a sensor or loose connector, but yeah, best to check it before it gets worse.
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Codes description EPC and MTK indicators light up after acceleration
xetonij552
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Codes description Check engine light with P0420 code - catalyst efficiency problem, what should i do?
xatah88954
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Yeah, I’ve been through this. P0420 popped up on my Tiguan, and I used InCarDoc to pull the code. Car was driving fine, like yours, but still had that annoying CEL.
Turned out the rear O2 sensor was a bit slow - not totally dead, just sluggish. I changed it and the code went away. Try checking your sensor data in InCarDoc - could save you from replacing the cat for no reason.
Codes description Rough idle and power loss - what could be causing this?
koyale6605
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Sounds familiar - I had almost the exact same symptoms on my Skoda Octavia 1.4 TSI. Turned out to be a combo of a failing EGR valve and a dirty MAP sensor. Rough idle + inconsistent acceleration + random CEL that clears itself - all classic signs.
Before replacing anything, I used InCarDoc to scan for stored codes (even if the CEL isn’t on, the codes might still be there). It showed intermittent faults in the EGR flow and boost pressure readings.
I’d definitely start with a scan - it might point you to something small like a dirty sensor or sticking valve before it becomes a bigger issue. Also, keep an eye on fuel trims and throttle response data if you can - InCarDoc logs that too.
Codes description Car smells like fuel after driving - normal or not?
joxise4009
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Yeah, I had something similar on my 2012 Golf 1.4 TSI. I noticed a faint fuel smell near the rear too, plus slightly rough idle at stoplights - turned out to be a small EVAP system leak. Nothing major at first, but it eventually triggered a CEL that stuck.
If you haven’t already, I’d recommend scanning with something like InCarDoc. It’s pretty handy for pulling stored codes even if the CEL disappears. Check for codes like P0441, P0456, or anything related to the EVAP purge valve or charcoal canister.
Also worth inspecting the fuel filler neck area and vapor lines under the rear of the car - mine had a cracked hose near the tank that only leaked vapors when warm.
Could be something simple, but good to catch it early!
Codes description Lost power and EPC light lit up.
belame7602
разместил это
21 июля 2025
The EPC light usually points to an issue with the throttle system, sensors, or electronic engine controls — and what you’re describing (loss of power, sluggish throttle) sounds like the car went into limp mode to protect itself.
Even if the Check Engine Light didn’t come on, there’s probably a stored code in the ECU. I’d recommend scanning it ASAP — even a basic OBD2 app like InCarDoc or OBDeleven can help you pull the codes.
Could be something like a faulty throttle body, brake light switch, MAP sensor, or even an issue with the turbo boost control. Driving with the EPC light on isn’t ideal — it’s usually okay short-term if you need to get home, but don’t ignore it. You could lose power entirely if the fault gets worse.
Codes description P20E8 – AdBlue Pressure Too Low on 2018 Peugeot 308 BlueHDi… Bad Connection at ECU?
jecileg509
разместил это
21 июля 2025
That actually makes a lot of sense. I've seen cases where oxidation or minor corrosion on the ECU connector caused weird intermittent issues, especially with AdBlue systems. They’re super sensitive to voltage and signal consistency.
Just wiggling the connector could’ve temporarily restored contact. If the pressure came back up to 5.5 bar right after, I’d say the connection played a big role. Might be worth pulling the connector again and using some contact cleaner and dielectric grease to protect it from moisture long-term.
Codes description P20E8 – AdBlue Pressure Too Low on 2018 Peugeot 308 BlueHDi… Bad Connection at ECU?
porocod331
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Hey folks,
I recently had a weird experience with my 2018 Peugeot 308 BlueHDi that threw a P20E8 code - AdBlue pressure too low. The pump was only pushing 4 bar instead of 6, and diagnostics showed the pump status = stopped.
I didn’t have time to troubleshoot right away, so I kept clearing the code with my scanner. But it came back every 6 km, and after 30 km the check engine light appeared along with the AdBlue countdown (you know the one - car won’t start in X miles 🙄).
Yesterday I finally had time to look into it. I disconnected the battery and started trying to unplug the ECU (EDC17C60) to disable AdBlue via CMD. But the ECU connector lock was super stiff and felt like it was about to break - probably from age or exposure. I stopped before damaging it, planning to check with a buddy instead.
Here’s the weird part:
On the way there, the warning disappeared.
I checked again with my scanner, and the AdBlue pressure was reading ~5.5 bar, and it’s been running perfectly for 3 days now with no errors at all.
So here’s my question:
Could the P20E8 fault have been caused by oxidation or bad contact at the ECU connector? Maybe from water intrusion or age?
I’m wondering if me jiggling the connector just enough made the issue go away - or was it pure coincidence?
Has anyone else had something similar happen with AdBlue pressure faults?
Thanks in advance!
Codes description Sudden Loss of Power – Code P029900 on 2016 VW Passat TDI (Boost Pressure Regulation Issue)
faberi1384
разместил это
21 июля 2025
Good move checking the vacuum lines and replacing the solenoid - that's usually where I’d start too. When I had this on my Golf TDI, InCarDoc helped spot inconsistent turbo actuator behavior.
Watch the "Boost Pressure (Desired vs. Actual)" and "Turbo Control Duty Cycle" in real-time. If you see the desired boost going up but the actual doesn't follow, that confirms it's a regulation issue. Could still be the actuator sticking or a software/ECU logic glitch.
Codes description Sudden Loss of Power – Code P029900 on 2016 VW Passat TDI (Boost Pressure Regulation Issue)
xekoliw126
разместил это
21 июля 2025
I’ve had a similar issue on my Audi A4 TDI - same P029900 code. I used InCarDoc to monitor live boost and vacuum readings, and noticed the vacuum would drop right when the ECU was trying to build boost under load. Turned out to be a weak vacuum pump.
Try using InCarDoc while driving to log the vacuum behavior - if it consistently drops after throttle input, the pump might not be holding pressure, even if the lines and valve look fine.
Codes description Sudden Loss of Power – Code P029900 on 2016 VW Passat TDI (Boost Pressure Regulation Issue)
ketona9709
разместил это
21 июля 2025
- Последний раз отредактировано 24 июля 2025
Hey everyone,
I’m having a weird issue with my 2016 Volkswagen Passat TDI — the power suddenly drops while driving, and I keep getting code P029900: “Boost pressure regulation: control range not reached.”
Here’s what I’ve done and checked so far:
The diverter (bypass) valve seems to be working fine
Vacuum supply is good
Vacuum lines look intact, no visible cracks or leaks
I already replaced the boost control solenoid (N75-style valve), but the problem is still there
I did a vacuum test on the bypass valve — at first it builds vacuum properly on startup. But after a few presses on the gas pedal, the vacuum drops off completely after a few seconds, and the P029900 code comes back.
It feels like something is cutting vacuum control after a few seconds of running.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be the vacuum pump? A leak I’m not seeing? ECU issue?
Appreciate any help!
