Honestly, sounds like more than coincidence. I had almost the exact same problem with a 2017 C4 BlueHDi — AdBlue fault, pressure too low, countdown started, and nothing helped until I messed with the ECU harness.
These connectors aren’t sealed very well against weather, especially after a few years. Just touching or moving the plug might’ve cleared up oxidation or slightly reseated a weak pin. I’d clean the pins and maybe add a zip tie or light clamp to keep the connector tight.
I had that same P0238 code pop up on my Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi, which uses a very similar engine to yours. I replaced the boost solenoid too, but it kept coming back. Turned out one of the small vacuum hoses to the turbo actuator had a tiny crack — barely visible, but enough to cause intermittent overboost readings.
If you can hook up InCarDoc or another scanner and watch live boost data, you’ll see if it’s spiking beyond the target. If it is, check the actuator movement and all vacuum lines before swapping more parts. Sometimes it’s the simple stuff that trips these sensors.
Yeah, I’ve run into P2185 before, but on my old VW Golf, not a Leon. Same story though — that second coolant temp sensor was giving the ECU a signal that was way too high. For me, it ended up being the sensor itself, but I’ve also heard of cases where it’s just a loose plug or some corrosion in the wiring.
If you’ve got the InCarDoc app or any OBD scanner, check the live data and compare both coolant temperature sensors. If Sensor 2 is showing weird numbers compared to Sensor 1, you’ve likely found the problem.
It’s not usually an emergency, but I’d still get it fixed soon before it starts messing with fuel mixture or idle.
Sounds really familiar — I had a similar thing happen on my Golf 1.4 TSI. Slightly rough idle, sluggish response when accelerating, and the CEL would randomly show up and then vanish like nothing happened.
In my case, it was a failing MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). It wasn’t totally dead, just giving inconsistent readings, which made the ECU act a bit weird with fuel delivery. No hard fault, just soft CELs that came and went.
I’d definitely plug in a scanner like InCarDoc or something similar — even if the light's off, it might still show pending or stored codes that can narrow it down. Could be something simple like a sensor or even a small vacuum leak. Worth catching it early before it gets worse.
Yeah, I had almost the same symptoms on my 2012 A3 1.4 TFSI. Slight fuel smell near the back and rough idle now and then, especially when stopping at lights — no EPC, just a brief CEL that cleared itself.
For me, it turned out to be a small evap system leak — something with the charcoal canister or purge valve acting up. The fuel smell gave it away. It didn’t trigger a permanent CEL right away, just an intermittent one like you mentioned.
I'd recommend doing a quick scan with something like InCarDoc or any basic OBD app — even if the light’s off now, you might still have stored codes that’ll point you in the right direction. Definitely worth checking before it turns into a bigger issue.
Hey, I’ve had something really similar happen with my 2015 Jetta. EPC light came on right after a light throttle press, and the car suddenly lost power - felt just like limp mode. No CEL, just EPC, and weak throttle response.
In my case, it ended up being a bad throttle body sensor — it wasn’t totally dead, but was sending weird signals that triggered the EPC system. I scanned it with an OBD app and found a stored code related to throttle position.
If you’ve got a scanner, even something simple like InCarDoc, I’d definitely run a check to see what’s behind the EPC. Could also be something like a brake light switch or pedal sensor - VW's EPC system covers a bunch of stuff. I'd avoid driving it too much until you know for sure, just in case it gets worse.
Hi all,
I’m working through an issue on my Peugeot 307 1.6 HDI (110 hp). I had a P0238 error come up - something related to turbo boost pressure don’t remember the full description.
I replaced the turbo pressure control solenoid, and the code cleared up for a few days, but now it’s back again.
Anyone seen this before?
Hi everyone,
I’m getting a P2185 error code on my Seat Leon, which refers to “Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 – Signal Too High.”
The check engine light came on, and this is the only code that shows up when I scan it.
Has anyone experienced this issue before?
Thanks in advance!
Hey, I’ve had both of those codes on my 1.6 TDI not long ago. In my case, it wasn’t the turbo itself but a sticky turbo actuator and some inconsistent readings from the boost sensor. The weird part was — just like you — the codes came and went with no clear pattern.
I used InCarDoc to log boost pressure and actuator position over a few short drives. It showed that the actual boost wasn’t matching the requested boost, especially under light acceleration. That helped point me toward the actuator control rather than the turbo itself.
Might be worth checking vacuum lines too — even a small leak or weak vacuum could cause P2563. I cleaned the actuator mechanism and replaced a cracked hose, and both codes disappeared for good.
Hope that helps — good luck, and definitely keep logging with InCarDoc, it really helps catch intermittent stuff!
Yeah, P0011 usually means the timing is off on the intake cam, but often it’s just oil-related, not mechanical. The cam phaser relies on clean oil to adjust properly, and if it’s dirty or low, the timing can’t advance or retard the way it should.
I used InCarDoc when mine came up — checked the cam advance angle in real time and it looked kinda “stuck.” Did an oil + filter change (used full synthetic 0W-20), cleared the code, and it never came back.
If your car’s not misfiring or rattling, and the dealership said it’s safe, it should be fine to drive a little. Just try to avoid heavy throttle.
